A modern city by historical standards, Copenhagen remains rich in history despite its lack of ancient legacy. "In Plain Sight" acquaints Copenhagen's international community with the fascinating tales of their adoptive home city.
Photographs: Pexels
Text: Jess Hearne
Behind Nyhavn’s postcard-perfect façade lies a tale as colourful as its buildings—a tale of kings, sailors, prisoners, and poets. A vibrant swirl of past and present, Copenhagen’s iconic canal holds a myriad of history, culture, and stranger stories.
A feat of engineering
Nyhavn’s story begins in 1670, with King Christian V’s vision of linking the city’s bustling harbour to Kongens Nytorv. For five years, Danish soldiers worked alongside Swedish prisoners of war to carve out the canal we see today. Rather than being a royal flight of fancy, the canal was an engineering marvel for its time, designed to bring ships right up to the doorsteps of the city.
By the 18th century, Nyhavn had become a bustling hub of trade. Along its banks, colourful houses inspired by Amsterdam's iconic architecture began to rise. The canal’s oldest surviving townhouse, built in 1681, still stands today at number 9, a charming testament to historic Danish architecture.
During this time, Hans Christian Andersen called Nyhavn home. Despite being a notorious introvert, he spent many happy years in various residences along the canal, right in the heart of the noisy, chaotic merriment Nyhavn was known for. It was here that he wrote some of his most famous stories, such as The Little Mermaid.
A sailor’s paradise
The 19th century saw Nyhavn transform into a sailor’s paradise, brimming with taverns, inns and alehouses. The canal would often echo with the shouts of rowdy sailors and the occasional brawl, with outsiders brave enough to venture in typically being greeted with the infamous “Nyhavn Welcome” - a punch in the face!
In 1874, a wooden footbridge was constructed to connect Nyhavn’s two sides. While practical, it was also an aesthetic oddity, described by locals as “the bridge that couldn’t decide if it belonged to a village or a city.” In 1912, a sturdier structure was built, which still stands today.
An unusual detail of Nyhavn’s history in this period is its connection to tattoo culture. Sailors passing through would often get inked at one of the local parlours, as the area had become a haven for body art in Copenhagen. Some say the spirit of these sailors lives on in the vivid colours of the buildings, painted to match the tattoos that once adorned their skin.
"The Industrial Revolution had taken a toll on Nyhavn as ships grew larger and railways became the dominant form of transportation."
A new golden age
However, at the dawn of the 20th century, the once-bustling canal fell silent, and the area slipped into neglect. The Industrial Revolution had taken a toll on Nyhavn as ships grew larger and railways became the dominant form of transportation. The vibrant colours had faded, and the area had become a ghost town. It was in desperate need of revival.
Restoration efforts in the 1970s saw Nyhavn ushered into a new age. Inspired by old photographs and sailor lore, a new colour palette was developed to repaint the houses and revitalise the canal’s whimsical charm. In 1977, Nyhavn welcomed back the wooden ships that had once dominated its waters, marking the beginning of its transformation into the cultural hub we see today.
Today, Nyhavn is a feast for the senses. Millions of visitors are drawn to the pedestrianised streets every year to soak in its iconic beauty. Every December, the canal transforms into a Christmas market, complete with festive lights reflecting off the water. It’s said that on particularly cold nights, the ghosts of old sailors can be heard whispering through the winter air—a playful nod to Nyhavn’s enduring spirit.
Nyhavn is more than a canal; it’s a living, breathing piece of history. From its origins in the labour of prisoners to its modern role as Copenhagen’s crown jewel, it continues to captivate with its blend of beauty and eccentricity. It’s a place where the past lingers in the air, whispering tales of kings, fairy tales and the inked sailors who once called it home.