Chasing lights north

Photographs: Tue Hansen

Text: Heather Storgaard

The first rule of Aurora hunting is not to go Aurora hunting. This sounds contradictory, but local lore says that the 'Mirrie Dancers', as they're called in the very north of Scotland, suffer stage fright when you want to see them too much. And yet want to see them we do - some of us desperately. In September I travelled in Norway's Nordland - Northern Region - and picked up Northern Lights tips from experience and locals.

The season

Northern Lights season runs roughly from September until March, although they were visible in both May and August this year. During my trip, I follow the rules of not being too desperate so well that I almost miss them. I am so distracted by the beautiful Indian Summer we are experiencing on Myken that I hardly think about heading out at night. Or, a couple of times, the chatting and drinking goes on until the sun starts to appear again, and the window of darkness is gone. I carry on northwards to visit friends in Lofoten, Norway's popular and stunning chain of Northern islands and hope for more chances. The first night, we get distracted laughing at Ari Eldjárn's fantastic Netflix show and our host, Hilde, texts me to remind me to go and look. I started to realise that despite the amazing landscapes and extremities here in the north, trips are really more about people for me.

"Of course, if you're very lucky, the northern lights can be seen from Denmark. North-facing coasts with light pollution firmly behind you are your best bets."

Practicalities

If you are situated on a small island, the light pollution is likely to be significantly reduced. Denmark likes to think of itself as an island country, but stats place Sweden then Norway as the two countries in the world with the most islands. Visit one of these, preferably north of the Arctic Circle, and you will get to Aurora hunt while also experiencing unique insular cultures and communities. It might seem daunting to head out to arctic islands off-season, but that also guarantees fewer other tourists. Myken was a magical stop on my northern Norway trip, for the most part, because contact with the community was so accessible. And, no matter what Danes might say, the language gap was very close - I spent so-called 'snack programme' evenings and dinner parties chatting with Norwegians and Swedes with no difficulties. If you want more infrastructure and space, the more famous Lofoten will also provide it. With breathtaking scenery everywhere, you also will be satisfied if your search for northern lights doesn’t happen.

On the other hand, cities such as Norway's Tromsø or Sweden's Kiruna offer mainland accessibility and flexibility. It's cloudy, but Aurora's activity may be high. You can just walk or drive in any direction, unlike on an island where space is inherently limited. Getting there by public transport is also significantly easier: Kiruna requires only one change if you're travelling there from Copenhagen - in lovely Stockholm and Tromsis Ø, only an extra bus ride from the end of the Arctic Line in Norwegian Narvik.

Denmark

Of course, if you're very lucky, the northern lights can be seen from Denmark. North-facing coasts with light pollution firmly behind you are your best bets. Thy Nationalpark or Skagen off-season will also see you escape the crowds of Danish summer holiday season. Empty summerhouses can be rented for good prices, and there's nothing cosier than late nights around a fire waiting to see if the sky will light up. Just remember not to want it too much.

Follow this group for updates on the best times to view the northern lights in Denmark: https://www.facebook.com/groups/nordlysvarsel.dk/