Amsterdam vs Copenhagen – the food and culture scene.
Photographs: Thomas van Galen for I Amsterdam / Museum of Humanity / Restaurant De Kas
Text: Ophelia Wu
There has always been a debate about Amsterdam's and Copenhagen's similarities. From the instantly recognisable canal houses to their shared love of cycling, these two cities, steeped in history and heritage, often find themselves in friendly rivalry.
Before settling in Copenhagen, I had considered Amsterdam - a city that holds a special place in my heart due to family ties and fond childhood memories. While they share certain characteristics, to me, these two cities are alike in some ways yet fundamentally different in others.
Despite countless visits to Amsterdam over the years, I had never thoroughly explored its food and cultural scene—until recently. Thanks to Amsterdam & Partners, I had the opportunity to return and rediscover the city from a fresh perspective.
Culturally and heritage-rich
Living in large, heritage-rich cities like London and Copenhagen means you're never short of museums, cultural and historical attractions. From national museums that take you back to prehistoric times to innovative spaces and themed exhibitions, there's always something fascinating to discover. The same applies to Amsterdam, which celebrates its 750th anniversary this October.
Like Copenhagen, Amsterdam has long been a hub of progressive thinking. Its origins trace back to 1270, when a dam was constructed on the Amstel River, giving the city its name—Amsterdam. Just a few years later, in 1275, the "Tolprivilege" was introduced, granting the people of "Amestelledamme" exemption from paying tolls to export their goods through Holland. This spirit of freedom and enterprise set the foundation for the city's future prosperity. Amsterdam's access to waterways was key, fostering a mercantile spirit that not only drove trade but also introduced its residents to diverse cultures and ideas.
This environment nurtured great painters, philosophers, explorers, and thinkers who made Amsterdam a cultural and intellectual beacon in Europe. However, the city's iconic canal houses, built by its wealthy merchants, also carry a darker legacy—one tied to slavery and exploitation during the Dutch colonial era. Interestingly, the famously wonky and narrow houses owe their inconsistent architecture to a pragmatic reason: property taxes were based on the width of the building, which also influenced the design of the steep, narrow Dutch staircases. Everything is about "storytelling" these days, sometimes I wonder, if those walls could really speak, what kind of fascinating stories they’d be telling.
Like Copenhagen, Amsterdam's canals and waterways played a crucial role in its development, shaping its quarters, each with its own distinct personality and heritage. Beyond the renowned Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum, and Anne Frank House, Amsterdam offers a diverse array of museums. These include art and design-focused institutions like the immersive Fabrique des Lumières, the Moco Museum, and the highly anticipated Drift Museum, as well as interactive spaces like WondrExperience. For those seeking more unusual experiences, there's the Eye Filmmuseum, BodyWorlds, the quirky Het Kattenkabinet (a museum dedicated to cats), and the Embassy of the Free Mind. Echoing the city's diverse blend of history and modernity.
Amsterdam's Museum District is a cultural treasure trove, with many institutions located within walking or cycling distance. In contrast, Copenhagen doesn't have a specific museum district. Still, its key cultural sites—such as the National Museum, the Museum of Copenhagen, Glyptoteket, and Thorvaldsens Museum—are close enough to be walkable, forming a charming cluster. While Copenhagen rarely sees new museum openings, Amsterdam seems to find space for them continually. (How do they manage it?) With Amsterdam being nearly double the size of Copenhagen, it's perhaps no surprise that it boasts over 90+ cultural institutions, compared to Copenhagen's still-impressive 68.
"Like Copenhagen, Amsterdam's canals and waterways played a crucial role in its development, shaping its quarters, each with its own distinct personality and heritage."
A city full of stories
I am a museum enthusiast; every visit sparks inspiration and curiosity. On my latest trip to Amsterdam, two venues stood out. The first was the Museum of Humanity in the Zaan region, a thought-provoking space dedicated to human dignity and global stories. The second was the Drift Museum, set to open in late 2025. Yes, you read that correctly—set to open. My visit was an exclusive, private, hard-hat tour offering a behind-the-scenes glimpse of this exciting project. It was genuinely fascinating to see the raw space and imagine its transformation. You’ll REALLY need to put on your imaginative cap and envision the outcome based on a presentation, guided tour, and renderings. But trust me, it’s something to look forward to.
Set in the historic Van Gendt Hallen in Amsterdam's emerging Oostenburg district, this visionary project breathes new life into the industrial heritage of five factory halls built between 1898 and 1905. Initially used for producing steam trains and later diesel engines, the 13,300 m² site is now being sustainably transformed under Eduard Zanen's initiative, with zU-studio, led by Javier Zubiria, overseeing the renovation. Their design preserves the building's industrial grandeur while adapting it to host DRIFT's kinetic installations across two halls spanning 8,000 m². The remaining halls will feature a mix of sports facilities, restaurants, offices, and start-ups, all prioritising sustainability. Despite its charming location by the water, docking at the site is prohibited due to legal and licensing restrictions. To overcome this, the architects have created an indoor harbour, offering guests a dramatic entrance. It's a perfect example of the city's dedication to blending innovation, technology, and sustainability.
Another area of immense cultural importance is the Hembrug District in the Zaan region, just outside Amsterdam on the other side of the North Sea Canal (Noordzeekanaal). Once shrouded in mystery, the Hembrug area was the high-security heart of the UNESCO-listed Defence Line of Amsterdam (de Stelling van Amsterdam). It served as the production hub for firearms, artillery, and ammunition for various parties, including the Dutch Army. So secretive was its past that it didn’t even appear on maps. Today, this intriguing area is being slowly transformed into a vibrant creative space, home to museums, restaurants, and galleries that attract both established and emerging talents. The name “Hembrug” originates from the former HEMbrug railway bridge over the North Sea Canal. ‘HEM’ refers to land reclaimed outside the dikes, raised to make it usable after the canal’s construction.
Behind its once-tall fences and under strict security, this 42.5-hectare site played a pivotal role in Dutch military history. As early as 1895, it featured venues like an "explosion forest" and factories producing armaments. Today, many of these abandoned industrial buildings are repurposed to house some of the Netherlands’ most intriguing museums.
One standout is the Museum of Humanity, a passion project of photographer Ruben Timman, located fittingly in a former ammunition factory. This museum boasts a remarkable collection of over 8,000 portraits of people from five continents, offering a striking and thought-provoking exploration of human dignity and diversity. Among its powerful images is a portrait of Kim Phuc, documenting her transformation since the Vietnam War, and countless other faces that illuminate humanity’s shared stories. Through its portraits and narratives, the Museum of Humanity aims to create a world where every person feels seen, acknowledged, and valued—a mission perfectly aligned with the Hembrug area’s ongoing transformation into a space where creativity and history converge.
The foodie side of Amsterdam
Amsterdam’s diversity ensures an abundance of culinary delights in the heart of the Dutch cheese homeland. While the world has been captivated by Nordic cuisine, with food enthusiasts flocking to Copenhagen for iconic restaurants like Noma and Alchemist, the Dutch have been quietly savouring their own vibrant and refreshing food scene.
From the sweet indulgence of stroopwafels and the rich flavours of Dutch cheese to the comforting crunch of bitterballen, Amsterdam offers a feast of traditional delights. Quaint cafés in historic buildings and innovative spaces like restaurant REM, perched on a North Sea platform, add to the city’s charm. Modern dining trends shine, too, with a growing focus on sustainable, farm-to-table cuisine featuring fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
One of the best examples of this commitment to sustainability is Restaurant De Kas, a trailblazer in the farm-to-table movement. Nestled within a striking greenhouse in a serene park setting, De Kas boasts a “harvested in the morning, on your plate in the afternoon” promise. This unique venue embodies the art of dining in harmony with nature’s rhythms. Its menu evolves with the seasons, featuring the freshest ingredients sourced from its own gardens and local farms. With both a Red and Green Michelin Star, De Kas is renowned for its pure, simple dishes made from the highest-quality produce, exemplifies Dutch agricultural innovation and offers a culinary experience rooted in sustainability.
On the city’s other side lies café-restaurant 't Heemelrijck, a cosy, family-run Dutch eatery and recipe with roots dating back to 1949. Now managed by the third generation, it has grown from a sandwich shop to three locations this year. French culinary influences from family travel complement its Dutch heritage, showcased in hearty meat stews, snert (split pea and pork soup), and stamppot (mashed potatoes, vegetables, and sausage). These simple yet flavourful dishes are rich in history.
Amsterdam is home to countless cafés (not to be confused with coffeeshops, which mean something entirely different here), bars, bakeries, and restaurants serving everything from traditional Dutch pancakes and pastries to vegan fare, craft brews, and global cuisines like Japanese, Korean, African, and Vietnamese. Blending heritage with forward-thinking creativity, the city’s culinary scene reflects its vibrant cultural and environmental ethos. With such an array of flavours to explore, the real question is: Can it rival Copenhagen and the Danes? That’s for you to decide.
